Varanasi (Banares), India is the city of the dead. This is where millions of pilgrims come to pray, meditate, bathe in the River Ganges, and cremate their dead by the banks. Not many places have fascinated me to such an extent. It’s packed with extremes and intensity like I’ve never seen before.
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Varanasi, India’s holiest city
Arriving in Varanasi was a bit of a shock to say the least. Apart from the fact that we got scammed within the first hour of arrival, we were met by extremities that made deep impressions, fascinated us or were unpleasant. In the hordes of people, there were holy men devoted to their religion, street children, mutants, prostitutes and public urinators, just to name a few.
One of the things that raised my eyebrows was seeing people peeing in public. For instance, I was taking the above photo of the cows when the red-shirted guy entered the frame and relieved himself.
Public urination is not at all uncommon in India. I saw many men and women urinating in the streets during my time there, especially in Uttar Pradesh.
Read next: How to avoid scams in Varanasi
The labyrinthic alleys in Banares
Boat ride on River Ganges
Varanasi is a very intense place with lots of things to see and do. One of my favorite experiences was the boat ride on River Ganges. You can take the trip in the morning, experience the most amazing sunrise (it’s breathtaking!), and see locals do their morning rituals (bathing, shaving, brushing their teeth and performing puja (praying ritual).
Read next: Why you should take a boat ride on River Ganges
You can also take the boat ride in the evening, where you’ll experience the Ganga Aarti (evening ritual with fire and music) at 5pm near the Dasaswamedh Ghat. We did both trips, and I’d recommend you do the same – it’s only $2 for an hour.
Read next: What to expect from a Ganga Aarti
Varanasi Ghats
Varanasi has almost 100 ghats, which are riverfront steps leading to the banks of the River Ganges. A walk along Varanasi’s ghats is a fascinating experience, although you should be prepared for filth and to be hassled by vendors. It takes about 50 minutes to walk from one end to the other.
Some interesting ghats include:
Assi Ghat: A bit more quiet and not as chaotic.
Manikarnika Ghat: Also known as the burning ghat where you’ll come face to face with death
Dashashwamedh Ghat: The top attraction and where the famous Ganga aarti takes place.
Funeral pyres and a lesson about death
Many ghats are used for washing, but there are several designated for cremations.
Varanasi is the holiest city in India, and it is believed that if a person’s ashes are scattered here, their soul will achieve nirvana (liberation). At Manikarnika Ghat, which is the largest cremation site in Varanasi, you’ll see piles of wood stacked for burning. The atmosphere among the male family members is not sad. I saw mourners instead laugh, chat and play cards as the funeral preparations were carried out. Women are not allowed at the site for fear they will cry.
I saw my first Hindu cremation in Varanasi. Standing only 3-4 meters from the pyre, I witnessed how a leg suddenly fell out from the flames, and when the body-burner stuck and turned a stick in the fire, a charred head appeared.
Varanasi is a place that embraces death and puts it right in your face. It’s not a place for the squeamish.
Read next: How to experience the Kumbh Mela – a life-changing experience

Up to 300 bodies are cremated at the sacred site every day
What made the greatest impact about the cremation rituals is the way Hindus handle and view death. You see dead people getting cremated in public and their ashes being tossed in the river. And just five meters from there, children are swimming, having fun, while moms are brushing their teeth and washing clothes with the exact same water. No one seems to mind. Death has become an everyday thing.
The holy, the naked and the cannibals
Another fascinating thing about Varanasi is the Sadhus. They’re the holy men and children of India, and normally they reside in caves, in the mountains or the woods. But because of the Kumbh Mela Festival, thousands were gathered in Varanasi to take a dip in the holy river.
Read next: Getting blessed by a naga sadhu
Some of the sadhus practice extreme asceticism by always being naked, others eat human flesh as part of a holy ritual. They’re usually very open and eager to talk, so have a chat with them if you like. Just be cautious and use common sense. There have been reports of rape, drugging and assaults, especially during the festivals. We visited several naga sadhus and had chai with the ones who seemed nice. You can easily judge if they are friendly or have an ulterior motive.
Things to do in Varanasi
- Visit Sarnath. It’s a holy place where Buddha supposedly held his first sermon after getting enlightened. Sarnath is only 10 km from Varanasi, and you can visit the place as a day trip for only $3.2 (including transportation and entrance fee).
- Join a Ganga Aarti. It’s an evening ceremony that takes place at Dashashwamedh ghat every evening at 6.45.
- Take a walk in the Ghat area. You’re bound to see sadhus, snake charmers, spices, temples and lots and lots of shops. It’s free, and I promise: You won’t be bored.
Where to stay in Varanasi
Shiva Ganges View Guest House – Situated in the best rated area in Varanasi, this family run hotel has an excellent location. There’s a 24-hour front desk and balcony. Click here to see the latest prices.
Where to eat in Varanasi
You’ll find some of the best food at the Lotus Lounge. It’s fresh, tasty and while meat is generally an absolute no-no anywhere near the river, here you can order chicken (and yummy pancakes!).
Amazing blog.Everything I was curious to know about Varanasi in a gist . However , would like to know. Im planning a solo trip there. Are the hostel safe. you mentioned Ashi Ghat would be safe for solo travel and how about generally moving around Varanasi
Hi Sally, I wouldn’t recommend staying at the The Ganesha Hotel as a solo traveler. Honestly, I found some of the men working there too pushy and clingy, and the room was dirty. Better find a hotel that is a bit more expensive and be safe!! Like so many other places, Varanasi is generally safe, but you should avoid going out in the alleys at night.
It’s a religious and traditional city with many pilgrims so bring (or buy) a scarf to cover your shoulders. That way you avoid unwanted attention.
Have fun in Varanasi and don’t miss the morning boat ride at Ganges. It’s breathtaking!!
I’m with you !
My mom is from kashi!
Regards
Vikram kataria
You must know everything about the city then. I actually didn’t know that Varanasi also goes under the name Kashi. Thanks for enlightening me 🙂
Namaste
I hope you Exp basic Inner self visiting the holiest city !
Regards
Love & light
Hi Vikram, thanks for stopping by my blog! I had a great stay in Varanasi and it definitely made an impression!
This is all so very helpful. Did you book your travel/lodging around India in advance? And what about the sunrise boat tour? How did you book that?
Thanks, Ang! I booked accommodation along the way, not in advance, and I joined the sunrise boat tour on the morning of the trip. I just went to the ghat and asked the first boatman I saw 🙂
Hi Miriam,
My wife, son (3 years) and I are making our first trip to Varanasi. We will be there for 4 days.
Any tips for us – things to do? Most people recommend the boat ride..
How far is Sarnath by road?
Hi Abhimanyu, thanks for dropping by! I highly recommend the morning boat ride, the Ganga Aarti and walking along the ghats, especially in the morning. Sarnath is only 10 km from Varanasi and you can take a tuk tuk there.
Have a great trip!
I Liked the way you represented your trip, but when and how recently was it done… though i was looking out for more information on the Manikarnika ghat.
If you could share more of this information for me to explore before i travel! 🙂
Thanks for dropping by, Rahul 🙂
I visited India in March 2013 so you’re right to notice that some of the prices may have changed. The hotel links are up-to-date, though.
Was there something in particular you wanted to know about Manikarnika ghat?
I visited Varanasi two days ago.Being a strict Vegan I was horrified to see thousands of Male calves and Mother cows (whose milk production has stopped) being abandoned on the streets of Varanasi.The male calves are separated from their mothers within a few days of birth and let loose on the streets so that we humans can drink milk.It was a very sad sight.
Ganga was clean and I could take bath .Visited all religious places but the sight of the poor cows buffaloes and male calves keep haunting me.
I know how you feel. I saw 1 year-old children sitting alone on the streets without their parents and it was heartbreaking. Varanasi is a very intense place and you feel life and death much stronger there than anywhere else in the world. It’s only natural to be affected by it.
Wow you’re DEFINITELY not allowed to photograph the dead/the cremations.
Right. No need to shout 🙂
Hi Miriam, I’m so glad I found your page on Pinterest . What is your opinion about traveling alone as a female to Varanasi. I’m going to India in November 2016 for about 29 days. I’m heading to Mumbai to do a 10 day meditation then travel to Ahmenbad then to Delhi and Varanasi. I have friends in Mumbai and Ahmenbad but Delhi I don’t so I will be traveling alone. I’m a it bit scared to go to Varanasi with all theses sadhus around. But I want to go so badly.
Hi Kelly, welcome to my blog! 🙂
The sadhus won’t harm you and most of them are peaceful and very chatty! As a girl traveling alone, I wouldn’t visit them in their tents though and I wouldn’t go out at night after dark. I love India, but its view and treatment of women is disturbing and should be taken seriously as a female traveler. I don’t want to discourage you from visiting, because the country is amazing and solo travel is so rewarding, but you should be extra careful there, especially in Delhi. Cover your shoulders, dress in loose clothes and don’t wander alone in alleyways.
Varanasi is a very intense place. But if you keep your wits about you and stay at a nice hotel, you should be fine. It’s worth the trip for sure!
If you find the time, let me know how it goes. I would love to hear about your meditation retreat and how you liked India!
I love Varanasi and their and culture. It is the place to see the real culture of , tradition and customs of India. I Stay at WelcomHeritage Jukaso Ganges hotel during my visits to Varanasi. Nice place and hotel and i love to come here again.
So true. Varanasi is super intense and definitely a good place to experience Indian culture. Thanks for the hotel tip, Abhay!
Varanasi is a beautiful place and i stayed at WelcomHeritage Jukaso Ganges situated at Manikarnika Ghat. This hotel provides very nice service. i enjoyed the evening Aarti at Manikarnika Ghat.
Thanks for the tip, Naina. And like you mention, the evening Aarti is definitely worth attending.
Hi Miriam!
Having just visited and written about Varanasi, I definitely see you! There was this love-hate feeling when we were in Varanasi and after leaving. There are so many things happening at once, that is hard to take all in.
So glad that Varanasi was not our first stop in India! After all India is not for everyone, but is definitely an experience.
We didn’t get to see the Cannibals! hahaha You have really great pictures….we tried but people were on our faces constantly shouting either “no pictures” or “give me money!” hahahah
Was this your first time in India?
Hi Telma,
Thanks for your comment. And yeah, Varanasi should not be the someone’s first stop in India, but it’s absolutely worth a visit! I’ve never been to a more fascinating and intense place.
Hello, thank you so much for sharing your trip to Varanasi. I’m going there next month and am just boggled by the hotel choices and have been warned repeatedly to be prepared for the sensory overload. Your post was super helpful. Thanks!
I’m so glad to hear that, Farida. Varanasi is super intense, but it’s also the best thing about it! It’s by far the most fascinating city in India.
Hello,
Wonderful clicks..!!! Varanasi is a great city..!! I would suggest you to visit South India once. There are some amazing places here, especially the Western ghats. Thanks !
It’s high on my list, Janardhan! I would love to see Goa and many other places in South India, too. Hopefully soon!
Hi Miriam,
Your blog has incredible photos which is what drew me to it from pinterest. However after reading the content and some of the things you have done I am disappointed in your lack of awareness for ethical travel. I recently travelled to India with a local guide. We were told explicitly not to take photos of the burning bodies, it’s disrespectful. I had hoped you would have the common sense not to do this yourself but yes you have. You wouldn’t go to somebodies funeral in your home country and take photos so don’t do it overseas just because it looks good for photos. Secondly, the elephant in your post from Jaipur is again not taken care of well. In India elephants don’t roam free in cities therefore finding one in the hub of Jaipur means it was stored in some inhumane conditions. I really hope you will be more mindful of ethical travel practises in future.
Hi Toni,
I’m sorry you feel that way. I do consider myself an ethical traveler and I don’t think the text nor the photos in this post are disrespectful. All the best to you.
Actually you share the right information, I agree with your information. I like your blog and i get valuable information on this blog. There are so many developers working on this part but this is one of the best innovative post ever. Thanks for such post.
Thanks so much for your kind words, James! Come back any time.
Hey, thanks for your nice information. I’m drawn to Kashi but I’m not sure how I’ll do with if I see cows, calves or children roaming alone; especially if not well cared for. It seems to be one of the last most free cities in the world, so I guess there will be the good with the bad like anywhere else. I wish to do a meditative visit with respect. Thanks for the information as it prepares me a little.
Hi Elaine,
India – and Varanasi is particular – is rough, raw and real, and you have to be ready for it. It was difficult for me as well, but like you said: you have to take the good with the bad. Prepare yourself, because you will see children and animals roaming alone. But you will also see countless temples, breathtaking sunrises and spirituality and devotion like you’ve never seen it before. It’s worth the visit, if you ask me.
thanks for your nice information.Wonderful clicks . Love from Varanasi
Thanks, Atul! It’s always great to hear from a local 🙂
Miriam
Did you visit the university, BHU? It is one of the largest residential universities in the Asia. I was a student for 7 years and later pursued doctorate in Copenhagan spent 5 golden years. Married a nice vegetarian girl from Denmark who teaches at a high school in Charlotte where we live . I teach in the North Carolina State University in the US.
Email me
Hi Ramesh, I did not visit the university in Varanasi. Maybe next time 🙂
Why did you have to mention she’s a vegetarian?
Varanasi is the calmest and interesting place in India.
I would love to go back there again and again.
Thanks for your awesome travel guide and photos are really beautiful.
Thanks so much for the kind words, Sarah! I’m glad you enjoyed Varanasi 🙂
Wonderful blog on Varanasi. This blog has an amazing information about the destination places of Varanasi. It’s very religious & spiritual city beautiful visiting spot and captures very impressive photos.
Thanks so much. That’s nice of you to say!
Varanasi is one of the most religious and peaceful places in India. It’s really must visit place, there are lot of factors which set your minds to visit this place once in life. I’ve visited this place many times and every time I got an amazing positive energy.
Definitely is. Varanasi is a special place.
Vanarasi is an old city known as a religious place.Once every one should visit there you will learn many things about life.
That’s for sure. Both about life and death.
Great read I must say. You have beautifully portrayed your thoughts and ideas through this article. Great insight on the topic and value addition. Keep posting more articles like this!
Wonderful! really beautiful pictures. I was curious to know about Varanasi. However, want to know.
I visited Varanasi 2 months ago. It is unquestionably a lovely and fun-filled place for everyone whether it is a couple or a family. The evening Ganga Aarti was a beauty to behold! Thanks to the blogger for sharing such useful information. Also, the pics were amazing!
Thank you for sharing your amazing blog with us, very interesting experience, keep it up
Very informatic and useful blog. Varanasi is a holy and culture place. Ganga Aarti is look beautiful. Thanks for sharing your travel experience and amazing and interesting pics.